I'm here to let you in on the secret of cooking with tin-lined copper cookware, specifically vintage copper. There is a joy to working with quality cookware, something old that has lasted many generations, and countless cooks have used to serve sumptuous meals. Just ask Julia Child, the famous chef who cooked almost exclusively with copper cookware.
I first became fascinated by cooking with vintage copper when I stumbled upon this website: Vintage French Copper, the quintessential source for all things vintage copper on the web. The founder of this site is an enthusiast and a collector, but they offer invaluable insight in to vintage copper makers, marks, and cooking advice. I would advise anyone wanting to purchase vintage copper cookware to first peruse this site.
That said, I know many of you don't have time to fall down an internet rabbit hole and dedicate hours to research. So I'd love to impart a few copper cookware tips.
The most important thing to know when cooking with tin-lined copper specifically, whether it's vintage or new, is not to cook with it on very high temperatures. Tin is a relatively soft metal and at high temperatures (above 450 degrees) it can melt and "smear" inside your pan. Smearing is a sign that a tin lined copper pan has been over-heated. Copper is such an excellent conductor of heat you simply don't need to cook with it at very high temperatures like you might with cast iron or stainless steel (which comparatively, are poor heat conductors).
Another tin-lined copper cookware tip is be sure to clean it carefully. Do not use abrasive scrub sponges on tin interiors, tin can be rubbed away over time or easily scratched with the wrong type of cleaning implement. Use sponges marked "non-scratch" and boil off hard to clean food bits on the stove with a little soap and water. Let the water cool and then clean your pan. With this method stuck on food bits will rub off easily.
Also do not use metal utensils when cooking with tin-lined copper. These will scratch and damage your tin interior. I use only silicone spoons, spatulas and whisks when cooking in my vintage copper pans.
Lastly you will need to dry your pan thoroughly after you hand wash it (do not put vintage tin lined copper cookware in the dishwasher -- just don't) so the cast or forged iron handles do not rust.
I know, I know, so many don'ts! Why you ask, would you want to cook with such high maintenance pans?
Ok, so here's the real truth: copper cookware just cooks things better, and copper responds to heat changes immediately, so things don't get overcooked like can happen in cast iron pans which stay hot for a long time. Tin-lined copper is also somewhat non-stick, certainly more so than a stainless steel lined pan, and over time the tin hardens and becomes even more non-stick as cooking oils polymerize on the surface. Copper is also beautiful, and sturdy. Any vintage copper pans you buy now will most certainly outlive you.
So how do you know what kind of vintage copper to buy, and where? Well the best sources in my opinion are Ebay, Etsy, and private sellers or flea markets. You should look for cast iron handles, and copper that is at least 2.5mm - 3mm thick. Some cooks will tell you that 1.5mm is sufficient, and many contemporary pans will be this thickness, but to truly experience the wonder of copper cookware, go thicker. The thicker the copper, the more evenly heat will be distributed, and the more coveted by enthusiasts and collectors.
You will also want to make sure that the tin interior is new or in good
condition, any copper showing through means the tin lining must be
re-done to make it safe for cooking. Re-tinning of copper pans can run anywhere from $75-$150 from reputable craftsmen, many of which you can find with a simple google search or through Etsy. Do not cook on tin-lined copper cookware that has copper showing through the tin, cooking directly on copper surfaces can be toxic and detrimental to your health. All copper cookware is lined with another metal before it becomes safe to cook with, tin is the most common vintage lining (though you will see nickel and even silver on occasion), and a stainless steel lined pan is very easily found today in contemporary offerings such as from the famous French maker, Mauviel.
Hunt Ebay, ask questions of sellers, and don't buy everything you want or need all at once. Take your time, collect, and cook with one good copper pan before deciding how you feel about it. Fall in love with copper, and everything you cook and everyone you cook for, will thank you.
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