My Top Six Edible Mushrooms! PNW Coast Edition

Tuesday, October 20, 2026

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It's mushroom season darlings! That means the Oregon coast and much of the PNW will be teeming with our favorite forest treasure in no time at all. Many varieties like chanterelles have already started poking their little caps through the dirt and moss and this is the best time to find them before the rains start and turn them to mush. In addition to chanterelles I also love to pick king boletes, milky caps, chicken of the woods, shaggy manes, and coral mushrooms. These varieties are all easy to find here on the coast.


Check out the info below for where to find them, how to identify their lookalikes, and even some tips for cooking. BUT FIRST, a few safety tips, and where on the Oregon coast you can pick:


Safety first. A blog post is a starting point, never a final ID. Never eat a wild mushroom unless you are 100% sure what it is, and confirm new finds with an experienced local forager or mushroom club. Cook all wild mushrooms well, try only a small amount the first time, and set one raw specimen aside in the fridge in case anyone feels unwell. If you suspect a poisoning, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 right away.


Pacific Golden Chanterelle and King Bolete, this photo is AI and for educational purposes only.


Where (and How Much) You Can Pick:


Oregon’s rules depend on who manages the land, so know where you’re standing before you fill your basket.

  • Clatsop and Tillamook State Forests: No permit needed for personal use. The limit is one gallon of mushrooms per vehicle.

  • Oregon State Parks (Fort Stevens, Ecola, Oswald West, Nehalem Bay and others): Up to one gallon per person per day for your own eating, unless a sign says otherwise. This limit dropped from five gallons in March 2025.

  • Siuslaw National Forest (Cascade Head area and south): No permit for one gallon or less per day of most mushrooms. Matsutake have their own rules, and selling personal-use mushrooms is a federal violation.

  • National park lands (like Lewis and Clark National Historical Park near Astoria): Check with the park before picking anything.

  • Private timberland: Much of the forest around here is privately owned. You need the landowner’s permission or access permit.

**Personal-use mushrooms can never be sold or traded. Rules change, so check with the land manager before you go.


Good Foraging Manners:

  • Carry a basket, mesh or paper bag so spores scatter as you walk. Plastic bags can turn mushrooms to mush.

  • Cut or gently twist mushrooms at the base and pat the duff back into place.

  • Leave the old, the tiny, and the buggy ones, never pick all the mushrooms clean from one spot.

  • Avoid busy roadsides and sprayed areas, since mushrooms soak up whatever is in the soil.

  • Bring a compass or GPS. It is surprisingly easy to get turned around in thick coastal timber -- ask me how I know! hahaha


1. Pacific Golden Chanterelle (Cantharellusformosus)

Oregon’s official state mushroom and the one most of us start with. On the coast they love second-growth Douglas-fir, western hemlock, and Sitka spruce, often popping up through moss and salal. Look from September into early winter, a week or two after a good rain.

How to recognize it:

  • Egg-yolk gold to apricot cap, often wavy or funnel-shaped with age.

  • False gills: blunt, shallow, forked ridges that run down the stem. They look melted on, not like separate blades.

  • Solid stem, no ring, no sack at the base.

  • White inside. Tear it lengthwise and it pulls apart like string cheese.

  • Mild, fruity smell, a bit like apricots.

Also watch for the white chanterelle (C. subalbidus), a creamy-white cousin with the same ridges that grows in the same forests.

Lookalikes:

  • False chanterelle (Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca): more orange, with true, thin, crowded gills and a softer, thinner stem that is hollow. Often grows on rotting wood or woody debris.

  • Woolly chanterelle (Turbinellus floccosus): orange, vase-shaped, with a scaly top. It causes stomach upset in many people.

  • Western jack-o’-lantern (Omphalotus olivascens): grows in clusters on wood, with sharp true gills and orange flesh. Toxic. More common in southern Oregon and California, but worth knowing.

Kitchen tip: Dry-sauté chanterelles in a hot pan to cook off their water, then add butter, shallots, and a little thyme.


2. King Bolete (Boletus edulis)

Also known as porcini or cep. On our coast, kings are classic partners of Sitka spruce and shore pine, especially near the edges of dunes, headlands, and coastal meadows. Fall is the main season here.

How to recognize it:

  • Bun-shaped cap, tan to reddish-brown, slightly sticky when wet.

  • Pores, not gills: a sponge-like underside that starts white and ages to yellow, then olive.

  • Thick, bulbous stem with fine white netting (reticulation), especially near the top.

  • White flesh that does not turn blue when cut or bruised.

  • Mild, nutty taste.

Lookalikes:

  • Red-pored boletes (like Rubroboletus pulcherrimus): red to orange pores and flesh that bruises blue. These have caused serious poisonings. Simple rule: skip any bolete with red or orange pores.

  • Bitter, blue-staining boletes: several grow under coastal conifers. Not deadly, but one in the pot will ruin the whole batch.

  • Bitter bolete (Tylopilus species): pores turn pinkish and the netting is dark. Uncommon here, but a nibble-and-spit test reveals the intense bitterness.

Kitchen tip: Slice every king in half in the field. Worms find them fast, and bug-free slices dry beautifully for winter soups and risotto.


3. Milky Caps (Lactarius)

Milky caps get their name from the latex, or “milk,” that beads up when you break the gills or flesh. Dozens of species grow in our conifer forests, and many are peppery or upsetting, so this is a group where the color of the milk matters most.

How to recognize it:

  • Orange-latex milk caps (Lactarius deliciosus group): orange caps with faint rings, often with green stains on older specimens. Broken gills ooze carrot-orange milk. Found under Douglas-fir and pine.

  • Bleeding milk cap (Lactarius rubrilacteus): similar, but the milk is dark red. Common under young Douglas-fir.

  • Candy caps (Lactarius rubidus and relatives): small, rusty-orange caps with thin, watery whitish milk. When dried they smell strongly of maple syrup. They show up later, often November into winter, and are more common on the southern Oregon coast.

Lookalikes:

  • White-latex milk caps: many are acrid or toxic, such as the woolly milk cap (Lactarius torminosus) with its hairy cap edge. If the milk is white or turns yellow, and it isn’t a well-confirmed candy cap, leave it.

  • Russulas: similar shape and crumbly flesh, but no milk at all.

  • Small brown mushrooms in the same habitat can look like candy caps. No milk means no candy cap. Candy caps are best confirmed by someone experienced.

Kitchen tip: Orange-milk caps are firm and do well grilled or pickled. Candy caps are a dessert mushroom. Dry them and put in ice cream or cookies.


4. Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus conifericola)

Impossible to miss. In the Northwest, our species grows on conifers: Sitka spruce, Douglas-fir, and hemlock stumps, logs, and wounded living trees. It appears late summer through fall and often comes back on the same log for years.

How to recognize it:

  • Overlapping shelves or rosettes, bright orange on top with a yellow edge.

  • Sulfur-yellow pore surface underneath. No gills.

  • Growing directly on wood, not from the soil.

  • Tender, moist, and juicy when young. Chalky and crumbly when old.

Lookalikes:

  • Dyer’s polypore (Phaeolus schweinitzii): grows at the base of conifers and is velvety and rusty brown to mustard, not bright orange. It is tough and inedible.

  • Jack-o’-lantern: orange and on wood, but it has true gills. One look underneath settles it.

A small number of people react to chicken of the woods even when it is correctly identified. Always cook it thoroughly and try a small amount the first time. Some prefer only the soft outer edges, which are the most tender.

Kitchen tip: True to its name, it works in almost any chicken dish or on its own. Try it breaded and pan-fried.


5. Shaggy Mane (Coprinus comatus)

The forager’s roadside friend. Shaggy manes like disturbed ground: lawns, gravel paths, field edges, trailheads, and freshly graded roadsides. They pop up after fall rains, often in groups.

How to recognize it:

  • Tall, white, cylinder- or bullet-shaped cap covered in shaggy, upturned brownish scales.

  • Gills start white, then turn pink, then black, and finally dissolve into black “ink.”

  • Hollow stem with a small, loose ring.

Pick only young, firm ones with white gills, and cook them within a few hours. They start turning to ink even in the fridge.

Lookalikes:

  • Alcohol inky cap (Coprinopsis atramentaria): grayish-brown, smoother, grows in clusters, and lacks the shaggy scales. Eaten with alcohol, even a couple of days apart, it causes flushing, nausea, and a racing heart.

  • Amanitas: any white mushroom with gills that stay white and a sack or cup at the base is not a shaggy mane. Some amanitas are deadly. Dig up the whole base to check.

Skip shaggy manes from busy roadsides or treated lawns.

Kitchen tip: Their delicate flavor shines in a simple butter sauté or a light cream soup.


6. Coral Mushrooms (Ramaria and Friends)

Coral mushrooms look like something from a tide pool: clusters of branching fingers in white, yellow, pink, or orange, rising from the forest floor under conifers. They are beautiful, but honestly one of the trickiest groups to identify to species. Many corals cause digestive upset, so this is a “photograph first, eat later” mushroom for most of us.

The safest bets:

  • Cauliflower mushroom (Sparassis radicata): not a true coral, but often lumped with them. It looks like a big cream-colored pile of egg noodles or a sea sponge at the base of Douglas-fir. Firm, fragrant, and a prized edible.

  • Pink-tipped coral (Ramaria botrytis): thick white base with branches tipped in pink to purple. Considered edible by experienced foragers, though it can be confused with others.

Lookalikes:

  • Yellow-tipped coral (Ramaria formosa) and other pink-orange corals with yellow tips: known to cause stomach upset.

  • Corals with gelatinous or translucent flesh at the base, a bitter taste, or flesh that stains when cut are best left alone.

  • Orange jelly spikes (Calocera): small, rubbery orange “corals” growing on wood. Not worth eating.

Kitchen tip: Cauliflower mushroom holds its texture beautifully in soups and stir-fries. Rinse well, since forest debris hides in all those folds.


Learn More Before You Go

The best way to learn mushrooms is side by side with people who know them. Join a local mushroom club, go on a guided walk, or bring finds to a fall mushroom show. For identification, use a regional field guide such as “Mushrooms of the Pacific Northwest” or “All That The Rain Promises and More" and cross-check with more than one source.


Disclaimer: This post is for general education only and is not a substitute for expert identification. Eating wild mushrooms carries real risk. Pick responsibly and follow the rules of the land you’re foraging on.

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Easy Care Flowers & Shrubs for PNW Gardens

Wednesday, October 14, 2026

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There's no denying it, even in the PNW our summers keep getting drier, and a garden that can coast through July and August on little or no extra water saves time, money and a lot of mental head-space. The twelve plants below are tough, beautiful and well suited to Pacific Northwest gardens. Most need only a little help in their first summer while their roots establish, and after that, they take care of themselves.


Speedwell (Veronica spicata)

Speedwell is a dependable early-summer perennial with slender, upright spikes of blue-purple flowers rising from neat clumps of green leaves. It brings a vertical accent to the front or middle of a border and does just as well in containers. Bees and butterflies visit it steadily. Give it full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. Shearing off spent spikes encourages a second flush of blooms later in summer. Once established, speedwell handles dry spells well, though a deep drink during long heat waves keeps it looking its best. Most varieties grow 12–36 inches tall. Divide crowded clumps every few years to keep them vigorous.


Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Purple coneflower is a prairie native from central and eastern North America and a summer favorite for good reason. Its pink-purple petals sweep back from a spiky, copper-orange cone, and it blooms from midsummer into early fall. Butterflies and bees flock to it. If you leave the seedheads standing in autumn, goldfinches will pick them clean. Coneflower loves full sun and tolerates heat and drought once established. Its one weakness in our region is soggy winter soil, so plant it where water drains away quickly. Deadheading keeps new flowers coming. Plants reach 2–4 feet tall.


Lavender (Lavandula spp.)

Few plants say “summer” like lavender, with its silvery foliage, fragrant purple spikes and the constant hum of bees. English lavender (L. angustifolia) is the hardiest and most compact. The lavandins (L. × intermedia) grow larger and bloom a little later. Lavender comes from the Mediterranean and wants full sun, poor to average soil and excellent drainage. In heavy clay, plant it on a slope or a raised mound. Skip the fertilizer and the summer watering once it’s established, since too much kindness shortens its life. Prune right after flowering, cutting back into green growth but never into bare, woody stems. Depending on the type, plants grow 12–36 inches tall.


Euphorbia (Euphorbia spp.)

Euphorbias bring bold chartreuse and lime-green color to the garden, and much of that color comes from leaf-like bracts rather than true petals. Cushion spurge (E. polychroma) forms a tidy mound that glows bright yellow-green in spring. Mediterranean spurge (E. characias) is a larger, evergreen choice. Both like full sun, well-drained soil and very little water, and deer and rabbits leave them alone. Two cautions apply. First, all euphorbias have a milky sap that can irritate skin and eyes, so wear gloves when you cut them. Second, avoid myrtle spurge (E. myrsinites), which is listed as a noxious weed in Oregon. Most garden types grow 12–24 inches tall.


White Stonecrop (Sedum Album)

White stonecrop comes from Europe, North Africa and western Asia. It’s perfectly at home in Pacific Northwest rock gardens, between stepping stones, along wall tops, in containers and on green roofs, where it’s one of the most widely used plants. Give it full sun to light shade and poor, gritty, fast-draining soil. Rich soil and extra water only make it leggy. Plants stay low, with foliage about 1–2 inches tall and flower stems reaching 2–6 inches.


Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.)

Black-eyed Susans bring a burst of golden-yellow daisies with dark chocolate centers from midsummer into fall. They’re cheerful, reliable and easy to grow. ‘Goldsturm’ (R. fulgida) is a long-lived perennial. The annual and short-lived R. hirta types reseed freely to fill gaps. Plant them in full sun in average, well-drained soil. They tolerate dry spells once established but bloom best with an occasional deep watering. Leave the seedheads up in fall, because finches and other small birds rely on them as the weather cools. Plants grow 2–3 feet tall. Divide clumps every three or four years to keep them blooming strongly.


Pacific Aster (Symphyotrichum chilense)

Pacific aster is a true West Coast native, found from British Columbia to California in coastal bluffs, meadows and open woodland edges. From late summer into fall it covers itself in small lavender-violet daisies with sunny yellow centers. That’s just when most of the garden is winding down, which makes it a valuable late food source for bees, butterflies and other pollinators. It spreads gently by underground runners, making it a great choice for naturalistic plantings, slopes and meadow gardens. It grows in full sun to light shade, handles a wide range of soils and is drought tolerant once established. Expect plants about 1–3 feet tall.


Baby Sage (Salvia microphylla)

Baby sage is a shrubby salvia native to Mexico and the American Southwest. Its small, aromatic leaves smell faintly of mint and fruit when brushed. From late spring until frost it produces tubular flowers in red, pink, magenta or bicolor. The popular ‘Hot Lips’ variety is red and white. Hummingbirds can’t resist them. Plant baby sage in full sun with excellent drainage, since wet winter soil is its biggest threat in our climate. Once established it’s very drought tolerant and deer resistant. Wait until new growth appears in spring before cutting it back, rather than pruning in fall. Plants form a rounded shrub about 2–4 feet tall.


Yarrow (Achillea spp.)

Yarrow is one of the toughest perennials you can plant, and our native western yarrow (Achillea millefolium) grows wild across the Pacific Northwest. Feathery, fern-like leaves support flat-topped clusters of tiny flowers in white, yellow, pink or red, depending on the variety. Those flowers are magnets for beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings and hoverflies, which help keep garden pests in check. Yarrow actually prefers poor, lean soil. Rich soil and extra water make it floppy. Give it full sun and leave it alone, deadheading to extend the bloom. Plants grow 12–36 inches tall and can spread, so give them room or divide them every few years.


Ceanothus (California Lilac)

In spring, ceanothus puts on one of the showiest displays around, smothering itself in clusters of blue to deep-violet flowers that buzz with bees.  Several species are native to Oregon, including blueblossom (C. thyrsiflorus) on the southern coast. Ceanothus has nitrogen-fixing roots, so it thrives in poor soil. The key to success is full sun, good drainage and no summer water once it’s established, because irrigation in hot weather can cause root rot. Size varies enormously by variety: low groundcovers stay about 1 foot tall, while upright shrubs reach 10 feet or more. Check the plant tag carefully. If needed, prune lightly right after flowering.


Blanket Flower (Gaillardia spp.)

Blanket flower glows in fiery red, orange and yellow, like the colors of a woven blanket, which is how it got its name. These daisy-like blooms keep coming from early summer right up until frost, and pollinators love them. One species, Gaillardia aristata, is native to the western United States, including parts of Oregon. Blanket flower thrives in heat, full sun and lean, sandy or gravelly soil. Rich soil or wet winter conditions can shorten its life. Deadhead regularly to keep it blooming. Cutting it back in late summer helps it return the next year. Plants grow 12–24 inches tall.


Catmint (Nepeta spp.)

Catmint forms soft, billowing mounds of aromatic gray-green foliage topped with clouds of lavender-blue flowers from late spring through summer. It’s one of the best plants for edging paths and softening the front of a border, and bees adore it. Deer and rabbits usually leave it alone. Catmint is easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil and handles dry conditions with ease. After the first flush of flowers fades, shear the plant back by about a third for a fresh round of blooms. Garden catmints like ‘Walker’s Low’ are less irresistible to cats than true catnip, but some cats will still enjoy a roll in them. Most varieties grow 12–24 inches tall.





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Nature Responds -- A Powdery Mildew Journey

Tuesday, October 6, 2026

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This year has been a rough one in the garden. I don't remember ever having a year with so much powdery mildew, and so early in the season. I grow about 75 dahlias on a small city plot and the mildew showed up early July this year, at least two months earlier than I've ever seen it on my dahlias. Because I was growing many rare, expensive varieties that I planned on selling in the spring, I knew I had to do something to save my plants. Powdery mildew rarely kills a plant outright, but it definitely affects the health of the plant and it's ability to photosynthesize, which is critical for tuber production and energy storage. I use my income from dahlia tuber sales to help support my family, so nipping this problem in the bud was a high priority.



Because I'm a master gardener and a friend to pollinators, I started at the bottom of the chain for treatment. I used neem oil and then copper fungicide to start, spraying diligently in the evenings, rubbing it in to leaves and cutting off any foliage that was too far gone. I stripped the bottom 12" of leaves from all of my plants in an effort to contain the moisture effects from watering. I did this for weeks, but eventually I came to the realization that the neem and copper wasn't working (every plant was getting worse) and I moved on to a product called Atticus Gravex on the recommendation of some professional growers. This product required full PPE and keeping my pets indoors while it dried on the leaves. I had high hopes and crossed my fingers hard, but after application I saw mild improvement, and then a week later the powdery mildew returned with a vengeance.





Meanwhile my dahlias were flowering well, in some cases not as vigorous as the year before, but not a disaster, but as I defoliated the plants more and more trying to contain the issue, I knew I needed a systemic treatment or I wouldn't get any tubers. I went back to a product I had used once before with success, something that is actually marketed for roses: Bio Advanced All-in-One. I had to play around with the concentrations and amounts because there weren't clear guidelines for dahlias. I ended up using 4oz per 2 gallons of water and used about 4 cups of water per plant. Please note this is also a fertilizer and contains alot of nitrogen, not something I really wanted to do in August, but considering how I had just defoliated almost all of my dahlias down to the bare minimum I figured it couldn't hurt. (for those that don't know, you generally don't want to give a dahlia much nitrogen after they have grown to their full mature height, this can cause them to stop making flowers and instead focus on foliage). FYI the active ingredient in this fungicide wise is Tebuconazole, and the concentrations I was using were on the weaker side, if you have a really bad fungus problem on a dahlia, I would use as much as 2oz of concentrate per plant diluted in 2 quarts of water.



Long story short, by the first of September my plants had bounced back well, the powdery mildew was under control, and I breathed a sigh of relief. I was still getting flowers and lots and lots of green foliage growth due to the fertilizer in the product. It hadn't been my plan to use a chemical, systemic fungicide to control my powdery mildew issues, but after exhausting my other options, it felt like the right move to save my plants. I remained concerned however about pollinators and the possibility that they could be affected by this product. I began dead-heading twice a day, anything that looked like it might be about to open it's center was discarded immediately (I did this because this product, because it's systemic, can become concentrated in a plant's pollen and affect the nervous system of bees). I found no dead pollinators at all, and deeply hope that my diligence was the reason, and not that they simply flew off elsewhere and succumbed. 


It's always a dilemma in the garden -- trying to interfere as little as possible, but also balancing that with the reality of running a small business. I'm not happy about using a chemical fungicide, but I'm also grateful that the product existed and I could ultimately save a portion of our family's income from evaporating.


It's now October here and in the past two weeks the powdery mildew has returned, and I have decided not to treat it again. At this point the season is almost over, and while it's not an ideal situation, I'm not prepared to treat my plants again and risk any further eco-system effects. I also know that powdery mildew doesn't persist in soil, and it needs living tissue, so when the dahlias die back, the mildew will likely follow, and next year will hopefully be a different story.




BUT, please note the reason for this post, after my long winded saga above. I'm now noticing alot of tiny ladybird beetles (known as the Twenty-Spotted Lady Beetle) in my garden, and these feed on fungus like powdery mildew. I'm pleased to know that after all of this heartache, my garden can actually feed these tiny creatures. Nature sometimes gives you the unexpected, and then, eventually, she responds with a counter balance. These dahlias will probably stand for at least another month or two, because our fall and winter are so mild, and during that time, I hope the tubers grow, and the ladybird's feed





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Seasonal Plant Pruning Guide

Sunday, October 4, 2026

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This is just a quick reference guide to help you know when to prune certain flowers, shrubs and trees. This guide is not exhaustive, please double check all recommendations for your region. Pruning in general requires good sharp shears (I like the Felco F2) and some basic knowledge:

  • Remove dead or diseased branches first.

  • Prune crossing branches that rub against each other.

  • Improve airflow by removing crowded branches from the center of the plant.

  • Avoid removing too much at once — generally, don't remove more than 1/3 of a plant in one year unless the plant can tolerate hard pruning (like azaleas, rhododendrons, quince, or mock orange).

  • Avoid heavy pruning during extreme heat or drought when plants are already stressed.

  • Disinfect tools between plants when working with diseased material.

  • Dispose of diseased plant material in the garbage rather than composting it to prevent disease spread.


*Please note the first guide is general, and the second guide is specific to the plants that are common in the Oregon coastal region, where I currently live and offer garden services.



 




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Dahlias! All You Need to Know

Friday, September 25, 2026

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I became a master gardener through the OSU extension program here in Oregon primarily to share my passion and knowledge about dahlias. I grow about 75 varieties, many rare and harder to find, and I sell tubers in the spring. Some may not even know what a tuber looks like or how to identify the parts, so please take a look at this first image and familiarize yourself with the three main parts of a tuber; the body of the tuber, the neck, and finally the crown -- where the sprouts or "shoot" will come from in spring. The "eyes" are the beginning of sprouts and the "tail" is just where the roots grow from to nourish the tuber and the resulting plant.


Orange dahlia pictured above: Bloomquist Jean


photo credit: theseedcollection.com.au

Dahlia's can be nitpicky, they like moderate growing temperatures in the summer (anything over 75 and they get a little weak in the stems and may require shade and extra watering) and the tubers will die if they are subjected to freezing temperatures during fall or winter. To top it off, too much rain in the spring can rot the tubers, so it's best to dig them up in the fall after blooming and store them, or if you have mild winters, cover the ground with plastic to protect from too much rainfall.


Thomas Edison, Clearview Debby, Diva, Ferncliff Inspiration


These beautiful flowers come in all shapes and sizes, this is due to the fact that dahlias are octoploids, meaning they have 8 sets of chromosomes and a comparably large genetic variance. They can be pink, red, yellow, white, purple, and any shade in between. Dahlia's do not come in green or blue, but the amazing array of colors, and the amount of colors within one flower, will astound you. The American Dahlia Association recognizes many different dahlia forms, or shapes, as well, and that number currently holds at 20, with formal decorative, stellar, and informal decorative being amongst the most popular.

When should you plant your tubers? Well, it depends on your zone, your last frost date, and how much rainfall you get annually. I live in zone 8b, coastal Oregon, and I plant late May, though I often start my dahlias indoors under grow lights in small pots so that I can get a head start and earlier blooms. Some people in California plant as early as April, but it all depends on your weather. Dahlias don't grow well in soil that isn't 55 degrees or above, and they will freeze and rot if subjected to anything below freezing, so make sure that you are well past your last frost before sticking any tubers in the ground. If you live in a milder climate like I do, you can over-winter your dahlias in the ground and they will start that much sooner in the spring -- my first blooms are always from over-wintered varieties.


Dwarf landscape dahlias, Tabasco and Hypnotica



What happens after you plant your tubers and they come up? Well, you do a happy dance of course, and then you wait until your plants have five sets of leaves (including the very first set of proto-leaves) and then you pinch off the top bit of growth so they will branch and you will get bushier plants and more blooms. Congratulations, you're a dahlia grower now! Don't forget to dead-head your blooms and cut deep when collecting for bouquets, this will encourage longer stems and more growth and will signal to the plant that it needs to keep making more flowers. Have fun, and water deeply at the base of the plant (to avoid mildew developing on the leaves)  at least once a week — and more often in hotter climates.


HollyHill Lemon Ice






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A Coastal Cottage Dining Room-- Updated!

Wednesday, September 2, 2026

 





This is my current dining room above. The chandelier is from Wayfair, the table was made by my husband, and the chairs are two different styles, both from Serena & Lily. The new floor covers an old linoleum that was here when we moved in that only be described as “giraffey.” The picture below is how it looked the day we moved in, old fashioned chandy and all.

2014, move in day
 
We’ve lived in this house for almost 12 years and this is the third dining table we’ve had, the second and third set of chairs, and the fourth light fixture for this space. The walls were wallpapered to begin with and we spent weeks steaming it all off and then repairing plaster. After all that we promptly painted the walls orange and then we left the cottage-y wood valances above the windows (I'm not kidding when I tell you my husband begged me to keep them). 
 
2015

 
The photo below is probably two mini renovations in, we now had gray walls and a more farmhouse style light fixture (that was too small for the room I might add) and some impossibly heavy restoration hardware bistro chairs. The original linoleum floors were still in full force, the art was tiny, and yes, I had an “Eat” sign in my kitchen (sorry, not sorry. I do eat in my kitchen). Let this be proof that many average folks like myself have several stages of renovation in a room before calling it good!
 
Gray walls, 2017
 
2020, new floor and table!


The real MVP of the current iteration, is the black accents. I've heard many designers claim that every room needs a touch of black, and I would have to agree. In this case I went big with a much larger chandelier, and all black Windsor style farmhouse chairs with bamboo and wicker accent chairs.

2014
 
 
2023


2026
 
 
Besides adding a touch of black I think two of the major transformers in the space are the plants (hello, who doesn't love plants?) and the larger more modern chandelier. I mean getting rid of the old-west style light and the ducky border wallpaper probably also helped.
 
I would be remiss if I didn't mention these Helo Birdie art prints also, as they really made the room come alive. When going for that coastal boho feeling you really have to go all in and introduce some color. This isn't just a farmhouse y'all, it’s also a plant loving technicolor beach cottage, ok?
 
In 2024 we added the pine tongue and groove ceiling which added alot of warmth to the space. I changed out some plants, had cafe curtains custom made, bought two different chairs from Serena & Lily for the ends of the table and changed the wall mirror to a piece from Anthropologie and that brings us to 2026. In mid afternoon the space gives off a very cozy warmth that I love. How have your spaces changed and evolved over time?

 

 



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When to Prune Common Flowering Bushes

Sunday, August 30, 2026

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Pruning can be a pain point for many hobby gardeners, knowing when and how to prune your plants can mean the difference between leggy overgrown bushes and well sized plants that bloom prolifically. Here I will explore when to prune common landscape flowers like azaleas, lilacs, hydrangeas and butterfly bushes.



To start, determine when your plants bloom -- early spring blooming plants like lilacs, azaleas and rhododendrons all set buds during the previous summer or fall, meaning if you prune them in winter or fall you will be cutting off all your blooms. The best time to prune a lilac is right after it's flowered (usually late spring) and the same holds true for azaleas and rhodies -- however, you should keep in mind lilacs are not as tolerant of hard pruning as azaleas and rhododendrons, you can prune these nearly down to the ground and they will return, but a lilac should be pruned more conservatively if you wish for it to bloom for you the next season. Stick to a 1/3 pruning budget for lilacs, leaving about 2/3 of the plant intact. Concentrate on branches that cross or stick straight up in the air, and for azaleas or rhodies, you pretty much can't make a mistake, they are just too hardy to be deterred, so these can be great plants to practice your pruning skills on without dire consequences.




Plants that bloom in the summer like panicle hydrangeas or butterfly bushes, should be pruned in late winter or very early spring (February or March) because these plants flower on current season growth. Panicle hydrangeas such as Lime-light, or Bobo will benefit from removing any dead or diseased branches, and a clean up of weak or very thin stems. You will also want to cut back crossing branches, and cut back the total height of your plant by about 1/3 to 1/2, leaving room for new growth but making sure the plant wont outgrow its current space. When cutting you should always cut at an angle, ideally about 1/4" above a pair of buds or nodes. Butterfly bushes should also be pruned in early spring and hard pruning (down to about 12" from the ground) will force out lots of new stem growth and more blossoms. Avoid pruning either of these plants in late fall, you want to leave the old growth for winter protection.


If you have a pruning question that I haven't covered here, feel free to contact me. I have a few pruners that I prefer to use over others and those include the Felco F2, and any good carbon steel Japanese flower pruner such as this one (please note these are best for softer, less woody stems). I also recommend a sharpening tool for your pruners, they will need to be honed after each use and oiled every few weeks to stay in good shape.





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The Rise of Patterned Interiors

Saturday, September 20, 2025

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 Many of you might be familiar with the successful design duo Pierce & Ward, responsible for Dakota Johnson and Emma Robert's stylish homes, among others. They seem to be leaders among the rising pack of pattern drenching design pioneers in the last five years. 


Below you can see a photo from the home of Karen Gillan of Guardians of the Galaxy fame. Her dining room features three dominant patterns on the floor, walls and ceiling, a combo you may not have seen ten years ago and certainly not in the homes of Hollywood elite. Grandma-core is in and based on the most recent offerings at mega retailers like Crate & Barrel and smaller boutique designers like Lulu & Georgia, this trend has captured the imagination of the general public

Karen Gillan Dining Room
Swan Lake Kitchen Interior

Perhaps you never thought of putting stripes on the ceiling of your dining room or patterned penny tile on your exhaust hood, but the rules of design are changing and pattern is de rigueur. The winds of change have decided white and modern is out, and warm and patterned is in, specifically in muddy colors designed to bring a certain lived in atmosphere that screams "old money."

 

Well, this isn't new you might say, people have always loved gaudy wallpaper and floral grandma-core sofas! But as with all design movements, the spin is fresher, the patterns more sophisticated, and the accessories more modern and sculptural than ever before. Lulu & Georgia showcases this beautifully below in a room designed to show off their scalloped table lamp, a design look also adored by Pierce & Ward with their use of a bespoke scalloped headboard and no less than four prominent complimentary patterns.

Lulu & Georgia 

Pierce & Ward

Is this look for the masses? Well, why not? I think anyone stepping in to the design world for the first time feels a bit of hesitancy when combining bold patterns, but the truth is that if you follow the simple rule of thumb of sticking to a 3-5 color tone pallet, these kind of interiors can really sing. If you notice in the above photo from Pierce & Ward, all colors reside in the green, brown, mustard, and clay color tones, with the majority of pattern play taking place on the bed and the draperies (you should also notice the walls remain neutral, and this is key). The designers here have given the eyes so much candy at the center of the room, they have chosen to keep a more neutral background to provide a cleansing or resting point so the room doesn't feel disjointed. In the Lulu & Georgia photo you see the same but reversed, with a neutral bed frame playing foil to the pattern drenching of the walls and bedpsread. If you give the eyes a place to rest and a place to play in every room, you will find the perfect balancing point for utilizing multiple patterns per design.


If you want to give this style a try, I would say utilize at least three patterns per room, and stay with the same color pallette (3-5 complimentary color tones), and don't be afraid to layer, layer, layer. The key to this look is soft colors, organic patterns and quirky accessories that excite the eye (think scalloped lamps, unusual wall art, and funky trinkets). A great resource is the Pierce & Ward website which showcases their work and will give you a great idea of how to achieve the pattern drenched grandma-core cottage look. Happy desinging! 




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A Mirror In Every Room

Tuesday, July 15, 2025

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 You may heard that a mirror in every room of your house can add the illusion of space, reflect light, and add a punchy design element that might otherwise be missing -- and I'm here to tell you that is 100% true! I own over a dozen wall mirrors and not only does every room in my house have a mirror, but some rooms have two, including my kitchen (Does that make me sound obsessive? Don't answer that).


Cascade Mirror Serena & Lily


If you have a smaller more intimate home but still want to create the illusion of more space, a well placed mirror could be the very thing your home is missing. Stay away from anything too garish or themey (skip anything too nautical or very formal unless you live in a castle). Wood tones, bone inlay, and even wicker can give a room much needed texture. It's all about eye candy, and in my opinion a mirror is the jewelry of a well designed room.


When selecting a mirror for your space take in to account the height of your ceilings, the width of the mirror, and the perfect shape for your selected spot. A slim rectangle mirror will look great in a smaller vertical space, while a fireplace mirror will need more presence and greater size to appropriately fill the space above the mantle. Play with shape as much as possible, too many rectangles in a room can be boring and the eye will just skip over them.




Mirror gallery walls had a moment in the early 2000's but now you might be better served picking a single statement piece that reflects your design aesthetic and serves as an anchor for the room. I personally love a bone inlay mirror over the bed or between two sconces, and I adore an entryway mirror that serves a practical purposes as well as being a chic design element. 


Don't be afraid to place a mirror lower than you think is appropriate, a lower mirror or piece of art creates an intimacy with the viewer and the surrounding furniture that can change the whole tone of a room. You want to be able to fully engage with your reflection and that reflected space behind to feel the impact of a mirror's placement.



Apartment Therapy


Lastly, don't forget to use google image search when shopping for mirrors, so many retailers sell the exact same mirrors from wholesalers but at different price points (Pottery Barn, I'm looking at you!). I often find mirrors I love at prices I can't stomach, only to image search and find the same mirror for half the price from a smaller retailer. Happy shopping!












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